Monday, July 25, 2005
Day 9 - 25/07/05 Leigh Creek.
There were about 500 galahs in the tree near our tent. The first sign of morning was the mad hysterical laugh of the kookaburras and then the galahs woke up and exchanged pleasantries with their roosting neighbours, which generated more noise than can be described.
We got going by 9.45. Started driving towards Hawker. 
On the way, just off the road were the ruins of the Kanyaka homestead. This used to be a large sheep rearing station. But after a drought there was a downturn and the station was abandoned. What is left behind looks like half-built houses. Most of them have walls, doorways and window openings, but no roofs. The only traces of some huts were their fire places and chimneys. It was extremely picturesque but a little poignant.
Further up we stopped to take a look at the Yourambulla caves. From the car park we had to walk up a hill side, which was strewn with all sizes of rocks and boulders. Nearby were yellow orange rock cliffs. A steep step ladder led to a cave which was more a sheltered space beneath an overhanging. There, there was aboriginal rock art. A sign board nearby explained the interpretations of the motifs in the paintings. There were two other caves nearby with similar rock art too. The rocks were eroded into interesting forms and from up the hill side we were afforded beautiful views over the surrounding plains with the ranges standing purple in the distance.
We drove into Hawker and spent some time at the post office there finishing up some pending work. Had lunch at a picnic table nearby. It was over lunch that we changed our plans. We decided that instead of spending time around the Flinders Ranges we would head up the Oodnadata track and continue our journey towards Alice Springs and the Kimberleys and revisit the Flinders Ranges on our way back when it would be springtime and the wildflowers will be in bloom.
Rather than take the main road to Leigh Creek where we decided to stop for the night, we took the Moralana scenic drive. 
This was through the private Arkaba sheep station. It was a 28 km dirt track and the scenery was stunning. The western crags of the Wilpena pound rose on one side of the road and there was another range on the other side. The ranges had a wild beauty, and the afternoon sun picked out some glowing rocks against the hazy purple of the rest of the slopes. What added to the beauty was that the land was rich green with grass and scattered with majestic gum trees. There's a particular kind that I've only seen here that have a really stout base. They must be very old trees. We never see such old trees in Victoria.
Once we hit the road it was a straight drive to Leigh creek. On the way, by the roadside, was an old refrigerator, painted a bright red. We've seen this before when we travelled through some remote parts of eastern Victoria. These old fridges are used like mail drop-offs, to convey goods to different people. Someone who wants to give an item to a person puts it in the fridge or has someone who is going that way do it. And the recipient picks it up or arranges for it to be picked up by someone going that way.
The road to Leigh Creek is through unfenced cattle and sheep runs. So there were cattle and sheep grazing on either side. There wasn't a blade of grass in sight, just some scrubby vegetation. Makes one wonder how it can be economical to grow livestock in such country. The ground was very flat except for the ranges.
Leigh creek is a small township built and maintained by the company which runs the coal mines nearby. We're at a caravan park here and will set off on the Oodnadatta track tomorrow. There are two other couples that have just come through and are raving about it.
